Insulated Casserole Carriers

I am so excited to finally be able to do this post because I think a lot of you are going to find it very useful! I had been looking for a great tutorial on how to do this, and the truth is that I just plain couldn’t find one. Either they were really confusing with not enough visuals, they had a lot of unnecessary steps, they didn’t actually cover the whole casserole dish or there were parts of it I just didn’t find visually appealing. So I set off to make a few adjustments, add things I liked and get rid of the clutter to come up with a great tutorial post on how to make this carrier that holds a 9″ x 13″ pyrex (or any other casserole dish that size). The best part is that it’s insulated so it will keep hot things hot and cold things cold while you transport it from your kitchen to another destination! 

Start off by choosing your fabrics. I wanted to do a patterned exterior fabric with a contrasting interior lining, but you can choose to do the same fabric for the inside and out. If you’re doing two different fabrics then you’ll need to buy 1 yard of your exterior fabric, 1 yard of your interior fabric and 1 yard of Insul-Bright (make sure it’s the 46″ width!). If you’re choosing to do the same fabric inside and out, just get 2 yards of that fabric and 1 yard of the Insul-Bright. You will also need 2.5 yards cotton belting for the straps and 20″ total of velcro.

For the exterior fabric: cut one 30″ x 17″ rectangle and one 40″ x 12″ rectangle. Repeat for the interior fabric and the Insul-Bright. If you’re using the same fabric for inside and out then cut two rectangles that are 30″ x 17″, two rectangles that are 40″ x 12″ and one of each size of the Insul-Bright. 

Working with fabrics cut in the same size, lay the exterior and interior fabrics together with their right sides facing and then place the Insul-bright on top of that and pin in place. You now have two rectangles, one which will cover the length of your casserole dish and one that will cover the width. Sew all the way around both rectangles with a 5/8″ seam allowance leaving about a 3″ gap along the bottom of each. This seam will not be seen so you can use any color thread you like. Press out the seams along the bottoms where the gaps are (this will help them lay perfectly flat so when you flip the rectangles right side out and topstitch you won’t be able to tell where these gaps where) and clip all corners. Flip both rectangles right side out, making sure to push out corners and press. Top stitch all the way around both rectangles. I chose a navy thread for this so that it would not show on the exterior but it would add a pop of color along the inside.

casserole pieces

Using a zigzag stitch and thread of the same color, sew your strip of cotton belting together at the ends to form one continuous loop.

Lay the loop down like straps so that it’s parallel with the length of your wider rectangle. Adjust so that it’s centered (there’s equal length of strap on both sides) and the straps are equally spaced from each other. For mine, each strap was 4″ from the edge of the rectangle with a 5.5″ gap in between the two straps. Place your casserole dish in the center of the fabric and place pins on the straps at the side of the pyrex. This will indicate where to stop sewing.

Remove the dish and sew from pin to pin along both sides of both straps. This will attach the straps to the bottom of the dish. This part shows on the exterior but the stitching on the inside is covered up by the other rectangle so use a thread that matches the belting and you won’t even be able to see it! Lay your wider rectangle exterior side down and place the other rectangle on top of it so that it’s perpendicular. Make sure everything is exactly centered and then pin in place. You’re going to need to sew along all 4 edges to connect the pieces together. The easiest way to do this is to sew along the two lines in the top rectangle that are already there. Try as hard as you can to follow right along the original stitch to keep it looking neat.

Once those two seams are connected, flip the carrier over to follow the two seams on the wide rectangle. 

Your carrier is now assembled, all you have to do is add the velcro closures. The carrier closes by overlapping the ends of the long rectangle first so place your dish inside and pin a 4″ long piece of velcro to the exterior of one end. Pull the other end so that it’s snug and line up the matching 4″ piece of velcro to the interior.

Sew in place and then repeat for the wide rectangle, except here you’ll use two 6″ long pieces. Your carrier is now finished! To hold your casserole dish, just place inside then velcro together along the length like this:

And then velcro together along the width.

The straps will wrap around both sides and be all set to carry!

The interior of your carrier will look like this:

And the Exterior will look like this:

If you don’t sew, don’t have the time or simply don’t want to take on this project for yourself, I have made a carrier identical to this and have it for sale in my Etsy Shop! I will be adding more carriers in different patterns and colors in the next couple of weeks so keep an eye out for those!

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46 thoughts on “Insulated Casserole Carriers

  1. Hi Danielle, I would appreciate your help! I have my Insulbright all cut out (not the fabric yet), but when I put my Pyrex 9×13 pan in it, the 40 inch piece just seems so wide…12 inches as opposed to the 9 inches of the pan. When I wrap it up to see how it fits, there is a ton of excess at the corners and it seems like it’s too big. Even with a 5/8 allowance, I just don’t see how it’s not going to be all bunched up at the corners…yours looks like a sleek perfect fit. Thanks!

    1. No problem! Once the whole thing is sewn together, flipped right side out and top stitched that piece ends up being 10.75″ instead of the 12″ that you started with. The bottom of the pyrex measures 9″ but the top is bowed out slightly making it 9.5″ and with the lid on one it’s almost 10″ so the difference only ends up being 3/4″. I don’t velcro mine as tight as it goes, the straps secure it along those sides so I just fold that piece to where it lines up with the wider one. If you want to velcro yours as tight as it will go then it may bunch up that 3/4″… just take an inch off your original measurement in that case and it will be good to go! Let me know if need any other questions answered!

      1. Oh I see — so when you do the 5/8 inch seam that reduces the overall width, that makes sense. So, the very edges of the two rectangles have all three layers (the Insulbright and the two layers of regular fabric) folded over twice. It doesn’t look thick on yours, I guess it’s not a problem since it’s stitched down. Thanks so very much for your quick response this late at night! 🙂 This is probably the most complicated thing I have made so far and I felt kind of in over my head! I will get it done eventually…but I have to finish it soon, because I bought Thanksgiving fabric. 😉 Thank you so much for posting this; it’s great!!

  2. Hey, thanks for the pattern! I made one today as a wedding gift and it turned out great! I could only find a 9×9″ dish with a lid and there are no patterns out there that size so I adapted this one! Just wanted to leave the details in case anyone else wants to make this for a 9×9 dish. I cut both my fabric pieces 28″x12″ and followed all the other directions. To improve the fit though, next time I would cut the outer pieces (the one you sew the belting to) 30″x12″ and I would cut the inner pieces 28″x11.5″.
    🙂

  3. Maybe I’m having a dumb moment…the instructions call for a yard of insul-bright, and to cut a piece of it 40″ long???

      1. Hmm, the piece I bought (from Hobby Lobby) was only 22 1/2″ wide. I should have read the directions better 😦

      2. Sorry for the confusion! The only size I’ve seen at the stores I shop is the 46″ and all the tutorials I’ve seen didn’t specify a width so I just assumed that was the only width it came in! I’ll add that measurement to the tutorial, sorry it was an issue for you!

  4. I made one of these today using your tutorial and it was so much easier than one I made awhile back using another tutorial. Thank you so much!

  5. Thanks so much,,,Have made others with different patterns and yours is by far the best and has the best support for the dish. Only thing I would do different is cut the insulbrite a hair smaller so there was not a chance of it bunching at the seams.

  6. thank you I am finishing the casserole cover I am making for myself and I already cut some materials for another one for my friend as a gift. I made green plaid with red lining.
    this is really a very good pattern.

  7. Hi Danielle, thank you so much for this pattern! It is fantastic and by far the best one for a casserole carrier that I have found. I just pinned mine with a link to your page. Great job and thanks again! 😉

      1. Thank you! Your tutorial and images really helped! I’m looking forward to more patterns from you. This one truly simplified the casserole carrier pattern. I’m going to make lots for Christmas gifts! 😉

  8. Hi Danielle, Love the pattern, thank you!! I have made one and loved how it turned out. However, since I have easy access to wood(hubby’s shop has a ton of it) instead of sewing all four edges down on the inside. I left one side open. I slipped in a 1/4″ piece of plywood for a little added stability. But also this helps insulate it when you sit it directly on the table. keeps heat off the table,,, bonus. 🙂 Any plans on making a carrier for a round casserole dish???

  9. Hi, I am just about to venture into making one of these for a Christmas gift, can you tell me if it has to be insul – brite or can I use the heat resistant wadding?

  10. thank you so much for all these tutorials…I find when you do a tute it is easy to understand and makes a lot of sense….many patterns unfortunately are not well thought out and confusing. I particularly love your tote patterns and learned to put in a zipper properly from you..Thank you again so much.
    cajunladycreations

  11. The best pattern for a casserole carrier! I made one that you had to measure the fabric and cut the corners out to make the cross. It wasted a lot of fabric. Well, it could be used for something else but not big pieces so small projects. This is much easier!
    I will be trying this one.

  12. Thanks for this project! I’m definitely going to try it; such a useful item to have.
    Is the Insul Bright washable? In case of leaks. Maybe an oil-cloth type fabric for the inside would work for easy clean up.

  13. I am having trouble sewing with the insulbrite- any suggestions? It appears to get pushed forward and stretches out of alignment with the fabric layers. I have it on the top of the fabric, pinned, am using a walking foot, lengthened the stitch length and the tension and I still can’t get it to stay in place. thanks, Julie

    1. Hi Julie! Have you tried sewing the layers with the insulbrite on the bottom? It’s easier to pin the layers together with it on top but I think when I actually sewed them together I put the insulbrite on the bottom. Hope that helps!!

  14. Great pattern! I haven’t made one yet, but was looking at t different Pin a few days ago that was much more involved and thought there should be a way to make one with the criss-crossed rectangles with straps that ran under the bottom of the dish. Finding your pattern saved me figuring the whole thin out on my own! Thanks!

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